Exhibition at the Het Nieuwe Instituut, Rotterdam, NL
01.12.2019 – 12.04.2020
Devan Shimoyama, February II, 2019. Courtesy of De Buck Gallery, New York, NY and The Alison Katz Wolfson Family Collection, New York, NY; Aspen, CO.
This exhibition explores the role of a fashion garment as a socio-political carrier. The hoodie tells many stories - tales of social inequality, youth culture, subculture, police brutality, racism, privacy, fear and style. It is a garment that sparks a range of emotions, communicating all manner of social and cultural ideas and nuances depending on the gender, geography, age, conduct and ethnicity of the wearer and, in turn, the prejudices and politics of the viewer. Popularised by Champion in the 1930s, the hoodie was a practical solution for workmen; it is now, arguably, Western Fashion’s last truly political garment.
The hoodie is at the centre of contemporary dress, hyped as a trend and a must-have item, but elsewhere, is also a signifier of moral panic, banned by certain institutions and dissected by the media as an emblem for inequality, crime or deviancy.
Curated by Lou Stoppard this will be a dynamic mixed media exhibition, uniting artworks with garments, printed matter, digital footage, social media posts and other cultural artefacts. It will explore distinct and intersectional themes including the rise of surveillance culture and facial recognition technology; music and subculture; conversations around androgyny and gender fluidity; and the breakdown of traditional dress codes. The show will examine these themes in relation to the hoodie, challenging the viewer to consider its multifaceted relationship with contemporary culture. The exhibition will also contextualise the hoodie in fashion history, tracing its evolution from 1930s workwear to icon of streetwear.
The Hoodie brings together diverse artists and makers whose work in photography, film, installation, fashion, and other media is connected by a mutual interest in these central themes. It will feature work by seminal artists and photographers such as David Hammons, Campbell Addy, Devan Shimoyama.
Sasha Huber, John Edmonds, Lucy Orta, SOUVENIR OFFICIAL and Thorsten Brinkmann, as well as designers such as Rick Owens, Vetements, and Vexed Generation. Also on display will be specially commissioned installations by Bogomir Doringer and Angelica Falkeling.
To provide site-specific perspective, the exhibition and events programme has been developed with Malique Mohamud (Studio Narrative) and Chinouk Filique de Miranda. Exhibition design by Studio LA. The show will be accompanied by a digital magazine featuring specially commissioned essays, interviews and visuals.
more information: https://thehoodie.hetnieuweinstituut.nl/en
Aitor Throup, Ganesh Hoody, 2008. Redevelopment of the original Ganesh Hoody featured in Throup’s 2006 collection ‘When Football Hooligans Become Hindu Gods’. RECONSTRUCT, SHRTSKRT HOODIE SKIRT, Retrograde Orbit collection Spring/Summer 2019. Raf Simons, Autumn/Winter 1997. Courtesy of David Casavant Archive. Raf Simons, Autumn/Winter 2004. Courtesy of David Casavant Archive. The Hoodie, 2019. Foto Johannes Schwartz.
Yohji Yamamoto, Sweater dress, c.1990. Collection of the Modemuseum Hasselt. Bag Carrier Cap, 1900 - 1940. Collection of the Museum Rotterdam. Cream-coloured hood, 1950-1970. Collection of the Museum Rotterdam. The Hoodie, 2019. Foto Johannes Schwartz.